We meet in the dark, before the Old City wakes -- and walk in as the sky over the Mount of Olives turns from indigo to gold. This is Jerusalem the way it feels to someone who has lived here their whole life: quiet stone alleys before the crowds, the call to prayer and church bells overlapping in the half-light, and the exact moment the sun clears the ridge and the Western Wall plaza fills with color. Led by a licensed local guide who grew up three streets from the Jaffa Gate.
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